The Fabulous Designers of Glam Up Runway
The Royal Exhibition Building was awash in red light at the Glam Up Runway, with anticipation high to see the artistry of Australia’s leading bridal and eveningwear brands…
26 March 2024 | Words by Grace Biber
Glam Up Runway supported by Network 10 & QMS
The Royal Exhibition Building was awash in red light at the Glam Up Runway, with anticipation high to see the artistry of Australia’s leading bridal and eveningwear brands. The runway began with a piano ballad and a large screen showing a fizzling static box television, as if to show a portal into another time.
PAOLO SEBASTIAN stayed true to their bridal roots with the shapes and patterns of trains and sashes but showed their first pieces in all-black, perhaps paying homage to Melbourne fashion stereotypes. He closed with four white bridal looks that differed in drama, featuring wide puffy sleeves held above a trailing cape and voluminous ivory skirts that were held bunched above the ankles.
MARIAM SEDDIQ explored how fabric interacts with our bodies, showing skintight looks with bolts of fabric falling from the shoulders or hips. Uber-cool evening glam was represented by matte fabrics in all-black, each dress showing slight bits of skin while using cut-outs to add elements of sensuality. Following these were a group of regal white bridal dresses that defied the notion of what a sleeve is. Whether swooping behind the arms or gathering by the sides, the absence of colour was a reminder that it is the quality of the garment that is most important.
ALK BY LE’KAL BY ALIN LE’KAL contrasted dramatic silhouettes and capes with sparkly mini dresses inspired by bridal elements. A skirt of feathers and beaded ivory bodices characterised the minis, while tulle swept across the runway in bright pastels. Melbourne-black was spotted through the collection in mermaid dresses that poured into wide flares with Lady Julia Morris stealing the show in a tulle coat and close-fitting black dress. Outwear featured prominently, the collection closed with a large purple cape that floated across the runway.
ASIYAM used excess fabric belted around the waist or cinched at the shoulders to perform billowing silhouettes. One of Australia’s finest modest fashion labels, the collection comprised mostly of understated neutrals that were reminiscent of nature—even a fluorescent pink that could have been an orchid. Silken fabric rustled amongst the models walks, falling gently away from the body to provide both modesty and glamour. Paying homage to Islamic fashion of abayat and chadors while adding her own spin, Asiyam cemented modesty as a mainstay of Australian fashion.
CAPPELLAZZO COUTURE provided drama in juxtaposing black and whites, showing traditional bridal gowns with fitted bodices and pronounced waists and minidresses incorporating bedazzled fabric with a party-like edge. Each garment was comprised of multiple fabrics, the most noticeable being a structured organza to create sharp, defined shapes within sleeves or skirts. Both small and large bows speckled the collection, either grouped at the waist or tied under the chest.
JASON GRECH ignored Melbourne’s love for black-clad glamour and showed dresses in a cascading spectrum of light purple to burnt orange and an array of soft greens. While the bodies and tops were beautiful, Grech’s prowess as a designer shone through in his skirts. Whether it was a tulle dress swaying in the wind, or a leg extending from a high slit, the diversity of what comprises glamour was well represented. Playing with how different fabrics in a single dress create a visual feast, the collection was marked by its dedication to representing how femininity comes in different forms—with ginormous bows as well, of course.
PAUL MCCANN X JANE HILL BRIDAL defied the notion of a traditional bridal dress. Within the gowns, Indigenous designs appeared on the ruffles and hems, until being absorbed by the whole garment in a regale of ombre black and white. Captivating with sparkles of glitter and dotted sheer fabrics, McCann’s collaboration with Jane Hill bridal explored the delicate line between a wedding and evening gown, choosing both and neither at the same time to forge a new identity.
As memorial and tribute to the late Count Shiva, the runway closed with a collection that paid homage to his famous love for capes and hats. Six dresses embodying elegance and vivacity swept down the runway in a touching showcase to the man who breathed so much life into the Festival.
Recreate our Makeup Looks
If you loved the runway outfits, then let's take a peek at a some of the beauty looks that we think are just as special. As we wrap up our 2024 Festival, we've put together our favourite Premium Runways makeup styles created…
26 March 2024 | Words by PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival
If you loved the runway outfits, then let's take a peek at a some of the beauty looks that we think are just as special. As we wrap up our 2024 Festival, we've put together our favourite Premium Runways makeup styles created by Lancôme, our official beauty partner.
ROCK ERA
Punk rock is back, so don't be afraid to go all out. Juxtapose an edgy face with feminine outfit details, as seen on the Revelry Runway supported by ELLE.
SIMPLE & ELEGANT
A classic and chic look paired with a bold lip to complement your glamorous outfit, as seen on the Glam Up Runway supported by Network 10 & QMS.
STATEMENT EYE
Embrace your inner popstar and recreate an 80s-inspired vibe - keep on layering eyeshadow or blush for ultimate impact, as seen on the Emerging Mob in Fashion Runway x Fujistu.
UNCONVENTIONAL LIP
Futuristic look for the fashion of tomorrow - rock a metallic lip with not much else, so it does all the talking, as seen on the Block Party Runway x Visit Melbourne supported by Nova.
GET THE LOOK
Now you can re-create these trends straight off the runway with some of Lancôme's best beauty products, recommended by the team.
Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra Wear Care & Glow Foundation
Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra Wear Care & Glow Serum Concealer
Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra Wear Foundation
Advanced Génifique
Trends That Defined Our 2024 Runways
After another successful Festival, the looks and styles that dominated our Premium Runways are paving the way for a fashion-forward 2024. This year's take: sheer is back (again), keep on layering…
25 March 2024
After another successful Festival, the looks and styles that dominated our Premium Runways are paving the way for a fashion-forward 2024.
This year's take: sheer is back (again), keep on layering, officewear is for everyday and pants look great cropped.
24/7 OFFICEWEAR
Corporate clothing isn’t just for the office. We saw a juxtaposition of traditional and unconventional styles take the runway. There were familiar pieces like suits, pinstripes and vests, whereas other brands bridged sportswear and professional, rejecting the rigidness of a classic 9-5 attire. Corp-core is rising in the ranks of popularity as it blends everyday wear with high fashion creating an elevated look.
Shop the Trend: Best Jumpers, Godwin Charli, Par Moi, Tomba
ROMANTIC SHEER
Sheer is here to stay. A touch of romance draws our attention to detail - undergarments peeking through, tulle pleats, lacing and hardware. On our runway, sheer pieces were both delicate and sweet, edgy and sexy, which is versatile for all. Sheer pieces can add a dainty, elegant flare or even an edgy, daring hook to any outfit making it one of our favourite trends of the year.
Shop the Trend: Banded Together, Gail Sorronda, Nevenka
MODERN LAYERING
Softer basics refreshed with layering - skirts as tops, or worn over pants, which create dreamy, creative silhouettes. On the other side, heavier and bolder pieces add further dimension and are the perfect formula for cooler weather. It is all about the details when it comes to layering as it can be used to amplify any basic outfit, creating shape.
Shop the Trend: Chris Ran Lin, Nevenka, Viktoria & Woods, Wah Wah
THE CROPPED PANT
Pants stopping at your knee add extra shape and dimension. We saw tailored shorts to mid-length capris, paired with statement shoe; this trend creates stylish silhouettes that also allow a moment for showcasing the footwear. This length is the perfect trans-seasonal piece to have in any wardrobe during the Autumn months as the weather begins to cool down.
Shop the Trend: Goodbyes, Gotham, Perple, Pfeiffer
NOSTALGIC LEATHER
From skirts, to sets and cropped biker jackets, leather is all the rage. Rooted in the bold statements of 80s fashion and complementing Melbourne's penchant for nostalgic styles, leather remains a timeless staple. We saw faux and vintage leather adding texture, structure and volume to seasoned looks as we move into autumn. Leather is easy to dress up or down making it the perfect fabric for your wardrobe all year round.
Shop the Trend: Banded Together, Manning Cartell, Sass & Bide, Viktoria & Woods
Explore more trends and styles through our Shop the Runway edit.
Creative Upcycling Trends At The Urban Oasis Runway x Fujitsu
Upcycling was all the rage during the pandemic, back when we all had the time to crochet, bedazzle and…
12 March 2024 | Words by Evie Dinkelmeyer
Upcycling was all the rage during the pandemic, back when we all had the time to crochet, bedazzle and embroider the day away.
Years later, as hordes of Melburnians flock to the 2024 PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival, 1.5 metre distance requirements a distant memory, those same creative fashion trends are still visible on our runways and in our streetwear looks.
Everybody wants sustainable fashion and upcycling your existing wardrobe is a great way to give your older clothes a new lease on life. Rip up your jeans, paint them, tie ribbons in your belt loops – there’s no wrong way to exercise fashion creativity.
Here are my favourite upcycling looks from Urban Oasis Runway x Fujitsu at the PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival, for you to use as inspiration for your next crafty adventure.
CNN reported the rise of knitting and crocheting during 2020, where teens were finding iconic knitwear pieces by luxury brands like JW Anderson, and recreating and sharing the knitting patterns on TikTok. Harry Styles’ patchwork cardigan was trending in August of 2020 as fans rushed to craft themselves a budget version of his wardrobe. My personal favourite look from the night was Iltja Ntjarra’s ‘Always was, always will be’ knitted balaclava. Another fantastic crocheted look was produced by Amber Days with a playful vest.
Ginny’s Girl Gang made its name upcycling denim jackets with First Nations empowered slogans like ‘On stolen land’ and ‘Always was’. This collection paid homage to that original style, and takes it up a notch with bedazzled symbols and sewn on feathers. Jewels and denim have been having their moment in Australia following Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour, where many swifties handmade their costumes from scratch – using lots of sparkles and DIY tools.
GINNY’S GIRL GANG
GINNY’S GIRL GANG
JAM the Label shows us an effortless accessory detail with this ribbon tie up necklace. Ribbons and bows as part of the coquette trend have been circling fashion events since late 2023 – a phenomenon that is simple to join in on and playful to wear.
JAM THE LABEL
Another avenue for upcycling your existing wardrobe comes from wearing an item differently from how it was intended to be worn. Wear your long sleeve t-shirt as an off the shoulder singlet, or drape your knitted sweater over your shoulder – anything is possible. Take some inspiration from this Iordanes Spyridon Gogos x Akira collection, where pieces are uniquely draping and tying up across the body, or this Best Jumpers look sporting two sweaters on one model.
BEST JUMPERS
IORDANES SPYRIDON GOGOS X AKIRA
Iron or sew on patches are a simple and effective avenue for upcycling, with the most minimal chance of messing it up and ruining your original item, for example see the hat featured above by Best Jumpers.
BEST JUMPERS
If you’re not creatively inclined but you still want to join in on the fun, upcycling of the highest quality can be found when you Shop the Runway.
A Turbo Dream
As the PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival draws to a close, the phrase ‘last, but not least’ comes to mind. Every designer at the Block Party Runway knew the stakes of showcasing in the festival’s final event…
18 March 2024 | Words by India Curtain
Block Party Runway x Visit Melbourne celebrates PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival’s final night
As the PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival draws to a close, the phrase ‘last, but not least’ comes to mind. Every designer at the Block Party Runway x Visit Melbourne knew the stakes of showcasing in the Festival’s final event, and delivered a powerful hour of fresh and edgy outfits that had the crowd up on their feet and dancing by the end.
PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival’s big Saturday night saw guests donning their best pieces in the Fashion Forecourt supported by City of Melbourne, the Melbourne heat influenced bold streetwear, lace pieces and summer styles. As the sun set, a buzz surrounded the Royal Exhibition Building, attendees gathering to see a collection of local and emerging brands each with their own unique personalities. There’s a word to sum up Block Party, and that’s attitude. Every featured designer, with the aid of stunning techno-visuals and music by Lord Fascinator, created an unforgettable night that turned the runway into a dance-floor.
HOMIE
HOMIE
Stylist and designer Kirsty Barros has a bold approach to creating an outfit, known for her use of layering and dimension. She outdid herself in this show, calling it a “turbo dream” with combinations that push boundaries. For example, Gary Bigeni’s colour pops with Dinosaur Designs jewellery and Adidas gazelles, or the composition of Homie’s Naarm street-style outfits. The casting of models meant that the runway was spilling with moodiness and charisma, encapsulating attendees with every move.
“I was trying to recreate the feelings evoked when a street party breaks out,” Kirsty explains. “An increased heart rate, sweaty excitement, different personalities expressed through dance.”
Colour was a main theme behind Block Party, alongside intricate use of texture and layering. This is no new concept to Gary Bigeni, known for their vibrant pieces. Polka dots and smudges of colour in loose, flowing clothes were paired with silver handbags and fierce makeup looks. "Everyone knows Melbourne is the city of black and layering,” says Gary. "I wanted to create this vibe, but with colour, so it shows my personal style.”
GARY BIGENI
GARY BIGENI
Designer Youkhana’s signature is their delicately hand-woven pieces, braided into a collection that was introduced by a trio of denim sets, and followed by flowing gowns. Delivered with unmatchable flair, Youkhana’s textural pieces swept the runway, paired with lacquered and iridescent platform footwear. The brand’s craftsmanship is inspiring, oozing time and attention to detail.
YOUKHANA
THE STREETWEAR TAKEOVER
Both in the Fashion Forecourt and on the runway, Block Party was met with an impressive showcase of streetwear style.
R.Sport, a brand intersecting streetwear and sportswear, graced the runway with their bold sportswear collection and funky accessories, showcasing as a 3/4 length skirt and vest, platform crocs, track-style sunglasses and sports bags. They’ve used this runway to “think outside the box” compared to their core collection. A 90s style was channelled with tennis looks, and an energetic dance break involving a handheld stereo.
“There is such a cross over these days between sportswear, streetwear and high end fashion,” says R.Sport co-owners Anthony and Jasper. “We designed with all this in mind and want to unveil a collection that taps into all three of those areas.”
One standout piece was R.Sport’s signature soccer jersey, with the pink, feminine style of Lucinda Babi in a designer collaboration for the show. Her looks consisted of decadent layers, Victorian details, florals, and striking screen-print patterns. Her intricate lace numbers were a highlight, paired with jewels and delicate footwear.
R.SPORT
LUCINDA BABI
FASHION FOR THE FUTURE
Various brands that walked Saturday’s runway have cast their eyes toward the future to create original and sustainable pieces, understanding that fashion is no longer just about the clothing. Naarm-based brand The Injury incorporates digital clothing simulation and mixed media in their brand storytelling.
The Injury’s Dan and Eugene explain how their brand bridges the physical world, connecting their material pieces with representations of CG films, music and digital art. “[We] fuse high-end fashion with virtual world possibilities to create its own special aesthetics that connect and and happen in the real world,” they said.
Their pieces were gothic and rugged, with powerful ensembles layered with chains, belts, biker boots and distressed details.
INJURY
INJURY
After 8 years and two babies, designer Nixi Killick was excited to showcase the advancement of her brand to a Melbourne audience once again. Growing up in the circus with her artist parents, Nixi Killick’s brand is uplifted by "the momentum and culture of radical positivity.” She leverages technology to not only create a collection of prints made from her own paintings, but to form an interactive experience within each piece. “Garments have augmented reality activated targets within the textiles prints,” she explains, “that activate on your smartphone and exhibit animated experiences that play directly off the garment.”
Her pieces were hypnotising, with esoteric, butterfly patterns signifying her design presence. Tribal drums and infrared visuals transported the audience to a faraway dance festival, with bright prints, colour and shapes.
NIXI KILLICK
THE INFLUENCE
It’s interesting to explore the differing themes that inspire each collection at Block Party. Iconic Melbourne-owned brand and social enterprise, Homie, supports young people affected by adversity and homelessness. They also feature an up-cycling range named REBORN, bringing dead-stock back to life and reducing waste. This Fitzroy-based name earned a cheer from the audience straight off the bat with a tech-y showcase of energy and presence, creating dimension with exposed stitching and blocks of bold colour. Either a stereo or a Bugskin tote bag in hand, the accessories tied together each look.
HOMIE
Lucinda Babi’s runway collection embodies the connection we have with the idea of home. Lucinda says that the pieces drew upon themes of comfort, opulence and nostalgia, mixing “girly elements,” subtle sportswear and strong silhouettes taken from the shape of furnishings themselves.
For Gotham, Block Party was an opportunity to explore elemental forces in their designs. They took inspiration from the sea and fishing, as well as the human interactions surrounding terraforming and mining. Their showcase was atmospheric and impactful, with layered pieces in earthy tones and a signature frilled addition.
LUCINDA BABI
GOTHAM
SETTING AN ETHICAL EXAMPLE
The Block Party pieces come from a considered design process, with many of the brands adopting a ‘made to order’ approach. INJURY has managed to cut down 80% of carbon emissions during the sampling process with this approach, alongside the use of digital clothing simulation. Lucinda Babi and Gotham’s Gautam Kapoor create each and every garment themselves, in a shared Collingwood Studio.
RUNWAY SHOW OR DANCE PARTY?
The Block Party Runway x Visit Melbourne was closed with a surprising, yet psychedelic performance from Lord Fascinator that saw the models take their final walk of the week. Their poise, energy and fluidity left attendees with wide eyes, but recovered quickly when invited to take the stage themselves. A dance party on the PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival runway ensued, ending the night with music, laughs and great moves.
Suit Up Runway Wrap Up
The Suit Up Runway is never a disappointment. Showcasing both classic and innovative designers, the runway shows where the suit has come from, where it is and where it’s going…
12 March 2024 | Words by Hannah Schmidt-Rees
The Suit Up Runway is never a disappointment. Showcasing both classic and innovative designers, the runway shows where the suit has come from, where it is and where it’s going. Whether you're looking to add one-of-a-kind pieces or reinvent your current wardrobe with a versatile addition, this is the best place to look. This is the forefront of Australia's suiting.
REIGNER
Reigner brings a striking edge to the runway. With brightly coloured suits, ranging from muted pastels to bright primaries, each piece is designed to be dressed up, dressed down, integrated with a current wardrobe or left to shine on its own.
Emboldened with intricate embroidery and crystal details, Reigner's suits are for the pursuit of pleasure, creating comfort outside of your comfort zone. Visual inspirations are limitless; baroque and rococo motifs mix pastel pinks and rich golds, contrast stitching imbues western styles with a minimalist twist and bold colours intertwine to reflect the natural landscape of the Californian desert. The breadth of designer James Noble's inspirations creates a collection that can easily be tailored to each individual's personal style, keeping its bright brand identity while creating pieces that are mean to be worn by anyone, at any time, anywhere.
Oversized collars and high waisted trousers with a subtle flare evoke an understated 70s feeling, structured shoulders and slim waists referencing the mixing between masculine and feminine features. Using fabric from Australian mills or dead stock from luxury brands, each Reigner piece ensures longevity and quality, supporting local industries and preventing the unnecessary waste of unused fabrics.
SILK LAUNDRY
Silk Laundry brings an intimate connection between the garment and the wearer. Charmeuse silk in striking colours; muted lime and rich navy; use their oversized silhouettes to effortlessly drape off the wearer and create art in motion. Combining silk's natural shine with bold tones creates a garment that speaks for itself, each inch lavishing in light and movement. Silk pieces can be styled together, layered together or worn separately, worn in rotation and designed for all seasons and to last.
Designer Katie Kolodinski reinvents the suiting norm, blending relaxed silhouettes with innovative takes on shirting. Worn backwards or off the shoulder, each piece can be tailored to each occasion, complimenting established wardrobes or inspiring innovation. For the times to be bold, subtle, classic, experimental and everything in between.
For a more structured look, crisp cotton is softened with a black and white daisy print, adding texture and intrigue to a classic matching waistcoat and trouser set.
TOMBA
Tomba has the classic style covered. Taking inspiration from traditional Italian style, Tomba has a light hearted perspective on suiting. Combining casual and black tie, soft knitwear wraps around bow-tied shirting, layering textures and providing adaptability for any occasion.
Nautical inspired t-shirt provide the foundation, hiding underneath relaxed blazers and matching trench coats for an added utilitarian feel. Navy velvet blazer paired with a subtle plaid trouser creates a rich yet subtle take on the monochromatic trend, creating ways to add versatility to your wardrobe, without compromising on visual intrigue.
Tomba's suit are versatile, to be loved, enjoyed and worn to death. Features that typically belong to formal looks are integrated with casual features, perfect for a capsule wardrobe. Each piece is made to measure and tailored excellently, designed to adapt to you and whatever you do.
CHRIS RAN LIN
Chris Ran Lin provides a highly experimental take on knitwear. Reinventing wool and traditional techniques, Chris Ran Lin pushes the possible to the impossible, renewing traditional techniques and pushing them to their limits.
Honeycomb motifs emboldened in black and bright colour schemes bring a streetwear edge to traditional menswear. Utilising both subtle and bright colour palettes, ranging from grey, blue and black to a clash of black and neon green.
In other looks, precise details are exaggerated. Contrast stitching is blown up, turning into a statement rather than an unseen characteristic. Used to connect pieces of the garment, the untied strings invoke movement, deconstructing the outfit and putting a focus on the technique and construction. Plush knitwear is paired with sleek yet striking puffer garments and accessories, adding visual intrigue and technical expertise, further adding to the streetwear influence.
Dressed up or down, Chris Ran Lin's garments are highly experimental and versatile, bringing a focus on texture and technique to your wardrobe.
PAR MOI
Designed and created in Melbourne by designer Ashiya Omundsen, Par Moi encapsulates sleek yet playful womenswear. Made to order from dead stock and surplus fabrics, no fabric is needlessly wasted and each garment is produced in limited quantities to create truly one of a kind pieces.
Traditional suiting fabrics are combined with playful feminine touches. A sleek a-line mini skirt is paired with a singlet adorned in 250 pink satin bows, all hand sewn to cover every inch of the garment. Not to forget the matching bag, with 150 bows of its own. Velvet polka dot viscose fabric are turned into flowing singlet dresses and matching sets, combining a sleek and minimalist feeling with whimsy, as the fabric sways with every step.
Dressed down with sleek accessories and minimal makeup, each garment holds it own weight, using either fabrication, silhouette, texture or colour to garner attention. It's understated yet clear, feminine yet powerful.
DOM BAGNATO
Celebrating 40 years at the Suit Up Runway, Dom Bagnato exudes distinction and sophistication. Dom Bagnato takes classic silhouettes and reinvents them with on-trend yet nostalgic materials.
Based on retrospection, each major suiting trend from the past four decades is featured in this collection. Keeping the traditional masculine silhouette, focused on structured shoulders and clean lines, muted velvets and marled knitwear add a soft and vintage influence. Malleable leather revitalises the typical structure of suiting, without compromising on visual strength. Crisp cotton is mixed with the warmth of pin wale corduroy, the perfect blend of classic and contemporary tailoring.
Layering the three piece suit with accessories and outwear, Dom Bagnato creates a cohesive story with every outfit, full of pieces that can be styled on their own or worn together, integrating into a sustainable and capsule wardrobe.
MJ BALE
As Australia's first carbon-neutral menswear brand, MJ Bale prides itself on it sustainability without compromising on quality and style. Utilising mills, tailoring expertise and wool farms from Italy, Japan and Australia, local expertise is supported throughout generations and traditional techniques are kept alive.
Light denim chambre suiting is perfect for the warm Australian climate, ensuring comfort without settling on design. Linen blazers are paired with wool blend trousers, creating adaptability and versatility in a capsule wardrobe. Bright sweaters and t-shirts are layered underneath muted blazers, providing opportunity to dress your suit towards your personal style.
Styled with Converse, each look is casual yet refined, perfect for those occasions that still require an edge of formality. MJ Bale creates garments with integrity, a simple integration into your current wardrobe with no compromises.
GODWIN CHARLI
Made to measure and created in Melbourne, Godwin Charli prides itself on only the best fabric and fit. Presenting both menswear and womenswear, each silhouette perfectly fits different physiques, eventuating and flattering from every angle.
Designed to be versatile from the 9 to 5 to the 5 to 9, each piece can be embellished with accessories or left to speak for itself. Double breasted suit dresses with sleek peak lapels brings a strong edginess to the collection, showcasing powerful feminine suiting. Light cotton blend sets are enveloped in plush wool blend trench coats, worn on the shoulders to give a subtle drape.
Slight pinstripe and plaid patterns, as well as textured linens attract the eye to look closer. Whilst Godwin Charli's designs are classic, their fabrications from high quality materials provide a contemporary twist. Wear it out, wear it to work and feel perfectly tailored anywhere, anytime.
So what are you waiting for? Suit up in the way that makes you feel most distinct. Shop the runway here.
Trends That Hit Our Revelry Runway
The theme for the night's show was dressing up for an occasion – because your life’s greatest accomplishments has no doubt been paired with the urge to plot out…
25 March 2024 | Words by Evie Dinkelmeyer
The theme for the runway was dressing up for an occasion – because your life’s greatest accomplishments have no doubt been paired with the urge to plot out your perfect outfit. Hundreds of Melbournians packed into the Royal Exhibition Building to see Australia’s leading designers’ take on the celebratory dress code.
On the deliciously balmy evening of Friday 8 March, the celebration in question was that the PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival was slowly coming to a close, with the Revelry Runway marking the second last night of runways.
Ready to wear collections were presented by Sass & Bide, Pfeiffer, Atoir, Hansen & Gretel, Husk, Maara Collective, Manning Cartell and Van der Kooij.
Milling around the Fashion Forecourt supported by City of Melbourne was a feast of unlimited free cookies (an unexpected perk of attending a show) and a feast of inspiration via the guest outfits… Charlene Davies donning a juicy orange Casey Quick design foreshadowed a colour theme for the night’s runway.
Inside the Royal Exhibition Building, our Australian brands manipulated traditional evening wear conventions, playing with structure and shape to create a parade of vibrant and playful collections.
Here are my trend takeaways from the runway.
A METALLIC POP
Both Husk and Manning Cartell played with metallic detailing. In this look, a gold clasp on the right shoulder acts as a cinching tool, drawing the eye to the collarbone as it catches the light.
TANGERINE ORANGE
Tangerine orange is a key colour seen across the collections. This juicy, bright hue can speak for itself – wear it intentionally. Its inverse on the colour wheel is sky blue, which was also used in Pfeiffer’s collection.
SASHES
A recurring motif from the show was the use of silk and other fabric sashes to accentuate the waist introducing a new colour into the palette. Sashes had their resurgence in 1920’s America as many designers attached them to dresses to highlight a curvy figure and create the drop waist effect.
TASSELS
You heard it here first, tassels are back. The 2010’s fashion cycle strikes again – we’ve seen ballet flats and chokers make their way back into the mainstream, and now it’s time for the western tassel. This look by Maara Collective uses tassels to accentuate the legs, and maintains the playful feel of the mini dress.
BOWS
It seems coquette isn’t going anywhere – these looks lean into feminine detailing. Longer ribbons/sashes were employed by Pfeiffer too, as they cascaded down from necklaces and skirt hems.
SUIT DETAILING IN FEMININE DRESSES
Twisting the classics; a modern take on the suit tailored look echoed throughout the collections, as mini dresses appeared with collars, cuffs and suit pockets.
DRAMATISED COLLARS, SLEEVES AND CUFFS
Maara collective, Husk and Pfeiffer all leaned into the 70’s wide and pointy collar for their shirts. Van der Kooij played arguably the most iconic trend in fashion history – the puff sleeve, which dates back to the renaissance. These dramatised details create form and shape for simple looks like mini dresses and shirts.
Inside the Trashie x Fashion Journal Clothing Exchange
A Trashie clothing exchange is a thrifter’s utopia: bring along a few garments you’re happy to part with, and swap them for tokens at the event…
6 March 2024 | Words by Evie Dinkelmeyer
A Trashie clothing exchange is a thrifter’s utopia: bring along a few garments you’re happy to part with, and swap them for tokens at the event. Then, it’s a cashless shopping frenzy – you can swap your tokens for any of the clothing on the racks. I joined in on the fun at the Trashie x Fashion Journal clothing exchange last Saturday.
For Trashie co-founders and sisters Katie and Angela, the brand is a step towards a more circular fashion economy, where “micro trends and predatory fast fashion businesses really phase out.” They want to ensure that sustainability is prioritised over profit.
The sisters are combating overconsumption of both fast fashion and vintage clothing – at the event, you leave with the same amount of clothes you arrived with.
Katie, who came up with the idea for Trashie, had a light bulb moment when she overheard a group of people holding overflowing bags of op shop clothes, complaining about how expensive second hand shopping has become.
“I thought, there has to be a market [in swapping] ... otherwise we’re going to be overshopping from op shops, taking away from people who really need those clothes ... when people scour op shops and do all the resale stuff, sell them on Depop ... I find that really unethical.”
On their love for fashion, Katie shares that “growing up, we didn't have the money to go and buy new things, but Mum had this love for op shopping and I think that carried through onto us.” She now has a degree in Fashion Merchandising.
For Angela, second hand shopping is all about the “beauty in experiencing clothing as an adventure ... you can find your style yourself, not being fed fast fashion trends.”
There’s no doubt the demand for second hand fashion is growing, but Angela worries there are “holes in the industry ... they’re all growing with this business mindset, whereas Trashie’s [focus is on] sustainability and community.”
The Trashie event is filled with Melbournites of all ages browsing the racks, balancing drinks, coat hangers and clothes in their hands, to the backdrop of live DJ Sickpig. It has a real community feel. Katie says “I always love when you see the swappers interacting with each other being like, Oh My God, that looks amazing on you!’”
Moving forward, the sisters dream of opening up a Trashie concept or consignment store – like the clothing exchange event, but permanently in action. It’s definitely one to look out for.
“I was at a vintage shop recently and the girl that works there ... [admitted] ‘a lot of this is from Shein and we just take the tags off, and mark it up like $100’ ... I think it defeats the whole purpose.”
Fashion Talks: Conversations Across Culture Presented by Museums Victoria
Hosted by writer and Culture Club podcast co-host, Maggie Zhou, this panel talk includes discussion…
6 March 2024 | Words by Evie Dinkelmeyer
Hosted by writer and Culture Club podcast co-host, Maggie Zhou, this panel talk includes discussion between First Nations designer, Paul McCann; Creative Projects Manager at Social Studio, Bonnie Mooney; Women's Community Advisory Group representative, Shegofa Nasari, and Inclusion Thought Leader, Winitha Bonney.
Addressing her audience in the leafy Treetops room of the Melbourne Museum, host Maggie Zhou opens the discussion with this: “multiculturality is one thing, but being part of a society that honours, respects and operates in tandem with multicultural communities is something else entirely.”
What authentic inclusion looks like
For Bonnie, it means “having the community lead the project”, where the organisation is “simply there to help with the structures and communication, and to show the people involved just how talented they are.”
The Social Studio does this by collaborating with their artists from the very beginning of a collection. Bonnie explains “we started with asking [the Afghani women we were working with], tell us what spring and summer in Afghanistan is like. And through these stories, we discovered these beautiful ideas that sparked our designs.”
Bonnie credits Shegofa, who is the Social Studio’s bicultural worker and translator: “without [her], we couldn’t communicate.” For Shegova, it’s important to help her own community: “I can see my help and my presence ... helps them get over certain challenges.”
Winitha adds that collaborations need to be looked at with kindness. She says you must ask yourself, “What is the kind thing to do at this moment? And sometimes, it’s to decide not to go down the path of a collaboration.”
She suggests that “if you’re a brand, and you were asked ... about that culture, or the ancestry of that person, would you be able to answer on the spot? Without your media team prepping that answer for you? ... If you are unable to do that, then it means you need to spend a bit more time [learning] before you start working with that artist.”
When cross cultural collaboration goes wrong
Winitha draws on her two decades of experience in the business to call out brands who are too focussed on the commercial angle of the partnership. “If they are doing very little work or support out in the community, or they don’t even have a Reconciliation Action Plan ... that’s a really big red flag.”
She adds that “sustainability is part of our responsibility to care for country”, so brands need to have strategies in place around that too.
Winitha notes that as brands and as humans, we are always growing. “When we’re designing something, and there is [a cultural sensitivity] we’re not aware of... when people point that out to us, they’re helping us step into our integrity.”
“Speaking up is an act of service, to help us create better versions of ourselves.” Essentially, being ‘cancelled’ is an opportunity to learn.
“From my Indigenous perspective, we have only been involved in the fashion industry, and taken seriously, for probably the last four years. A lot of us don’t have the
infrastructure behind us, the money, the sewing machines...so it’s important that the brand is providing that support to the artist.”
How to navigate the partnership
Bonnie has a grateful perspective: the skills that Afghani women have provided to the Social Studio are “not ... easily found in Australia anymore. They are offering them to us, and we are so privileged to welcome them.” In return, she is “helping to document and record their work, and retain it within the cultural craft landscape.”
Winitha says the best course of action is “respecting how [the artist] wants to create” and co-designing from the very beginning.
Paul corroborates: “you need to let me do my thing.”
Key advice from our panellists
Paul: Do your homework, so you really know who you’re coming into contact with. Bonnie: Consider that there may be barriers that you may not have expected. You need to have an understanding of the background of the culture you’re collaborating with. “There are a lot of things we do every day without thinking that can be huge challenges to others.”
Shegofa: Sometimes you need to know when to push your community to be independent – she shares a story: “The group I was working with, they’re new to the country and had never caught public transport by themselves before. Some of them were not able to touch on their Myki, or check the bus schedule ... [I realised] that when I am with them ... they won’t take a step themselves. I told them once I couldn’t come because I had a really important meeting. ... It was challenging, they got lost ... but after a few weeks, they were telling me ‘we will come by ourselves’. I’m really grateful.”
Winitha: True leadership is being of service to others.
SUIT UP RUNWAY
The stylish Suit Up Runway invited you to join leading Australian designers in their exploration and playful reinvention of the suit and its conventions, in a range of forms, colours, fibres and patterns…
SHOP THE RUNWAY
RUNWAY ROUND-UP
The stylish Suit Up Runway supported by Network 10 and Esquire invited you to join leading Australian designers in their exploration and playful reinvention of the suit and its conventions, in a range of forms, colours, fibres and patterns. A clarion call to the sharply dressed, expect exceptional tailoring, refined materials, made-to-measure, and simple, structured details for those who like to dress with distinction. The looks featured stunning intricate embroidery, bold statement pieces and celebrate inspiring designers with incredible personal stories.
I’m a Celebrity... Get Me Out Of Here! Co-Host Robert Irwin walked the Suit Up runway for one night only.
SHOP THE DESIGNERS
CHRIS RAN LIN
DOM BAGNATO
GODWIN CHARLI
M.J. BALE
PAR MOI
REIGNER
SILK LAUNDRY
TOMBA
SHOP HAIR & MAKEUP
HAIR BY L’OREAL
MAKEUP BY LANCOME
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“Own your Power” - Dress for Yourself this Festival
Many experienced the pre-going-out ritual from a young age, of pulling piece on and off, a possible breakdown one button-catch away…
28 February 2024 | Words by India Curtain
As the kick off for Australia's largest consumer fashion event grows closer, so does the time where one stands in front of an open wardrobe in disarray. While the PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival is about discovering new styles on the runway, it also acts as an opportunity to celebrate one’s own fashion identity.
Many experienced the pre-going-out ritual from a young age, of pulling piece on and off, a possible breakdown one button-catch away. “It's not a fashion show,” says an exasperated parent through the crack in the bedroom door. For those familiar, it’s time to shine.
Previous Festival attendees can attest to the fact that, while so much inspiration comes from the plentiful showcases that the featured brands present, it also comes from the atmosphere that eclipses Melbourne during this time. The truth is, PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival is a space for people to experiment with styles, textures and layers, but also to don their favourite pieces, and feel their most comfortable self.
However, the lead-up can still sometimes cause the classic wardrobe anxiety that so many have felt before; What the heck do I wear?
To settle the first-timer nerves, PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival have spoken to some seasoned veterans of fashion events about their best practices when experiencing a blank stare at one’s closet.
Q: What can I expect when visiting Melbourne Fashion Festival?
According to Festival Acting Program Manager, Thea Basiliou, attendees should come ready for a good time. There are plenty of free admission and ticketed options available throughout the week.
“Everyone is also welcome to come and visit our Fashion Forecourt supported by City of Melbourne to soak up the energy” she says. “There really is something for everyone!”
Whether it’s a runway show, workshop, showcase or exhibition, expect to be met with a lively crowd. PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival is a night filled with music, stalls, freebies and plenty of insta opportunities. Fashion and Celebrity stylist and brand-owner Lana Wilkinson loves the way that Melbourne ‘comes alive’ during the festival weeks.
“It’s such a busy time but it’s so worth it... I’m really excited to be a part of it,” she says.
Journalist, podcaster and content creator Maggie Zhou has been attending the festival since 2017, where she started as a volunteer. She adores the buzz and excitement of the week.
“You always leave feeling inspired and reinvigorated (despite the sore feet),” she says.
Each year, March in Melbourne can be temperamental in weather, but always spilling with energy. Riding on the back of the summer months, it’s common to see the previous season’s trends flow into the Festival style. Lana notes that colour are back in a big way, and advises to have bold, daring moments.
Q: How do I dress for the runway shows?
As a stylist, Lana has the task of settling the odd fashion crisis, and says her most crucial piece of advice is that fashion is meant to be fun. She believes in the importance of “owning your power” through styling confidently and fearlessly.
“You have to feel and look like your best version, Embrace the parts of yourself that you love and highlight them.”
Maggie agrees that the real fun comes from getting dressed up and pushing your fashion sensibilities. She tells festival first-timers “not to get sucked into what you think you should wear, and stay true to your personal style.”
Whether or not you choose to align with the style of the runway show you attend, is up to you. A streetwear show like Block Party allows you to experiment with your edgier side, while Suit Up Runway (supported by Network 10 and Esquire) might offer the opportunity to dust off that tailored-paint-blazer combo you’ve been dying to wear. It’s easy to stress about looking the part, but the reality is, everyone is coming and going from one place or another, and you’ll fit in regardless.
Lana emphasises the way accessories, hair and makeup can change the impact of an outfit. It’s helpful to take in every element, rather than just clothes, to put together something you feel good in. As the owner of Lana Wilkinson shoes, the stylist will sometimes build a look from the ground-up. A core piece such as a handbag or statement necklace could also be a fun starting point to experiment with styling oneself.
“More is more, there’s no such thing as being over-styled. Just have fun!” She says. She loves to think outside the box, styling a piece in a complete different direction to its mannequin look.
Q: Do I need to buy something new?
Short answer: No!
Queen of the train station fit check, Maggie loves to mix and match a wardrobe staple with a core piece or accessory. “It’s more interesting when people wear pieces they already own from their wardrobe,” she says. “Rather than buying entirely new outfits.”
Lana agrees, stating that “rewear is king.” The time going through one’s wardrobe and rediscovering pieces can be underrated, and sometimes all it needs is a refreshed accessory to do it justice again.
On the other hand, many aspects of this years Festival seeks to showcase the beauty of vintage and pre-owened fashion, such as the Trashie x FJ Clothing Exchange, the Swap and Style event, the Love It Longer Johnston Collection Discussion and the Upcycle Couture Soirée. Explore your own signature style in a sustainable fit and practice your “thanks, it’s vintage” response.
It’s important to treat yourself for a special occasion, and Program Manager Thea is excited about sourcing pieces from emerging local labels that she can pair with her wardrobe staples for this years Festival.
Q: What’s a non-negotiable to bring to a PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival event?
Maggie’s response was simple; “a charged phone and confidence!”
Lana swears by the use of jewellery and accessories to complete an outfit, but also to help you feel confident.
“Whether its a great heel so you walk taller, a great bag that makes you feel powerful or a great pair of earrings to feel like you’ve completely styled up, accessories are your armour,” she says.
Pfeiffer: Modern, Tailored, Feminine
Pfeiffer creates sustainable pieces for the modern woman. They take inspiration from tailored, masculine clothing and twist…
28 February 2024 | Words by Evie Dinkelmeyer
Pfeiffer creates sustainable pieces for the modern woman. They take inspiration from tailored, masculine clothing and twist, tuck and drape them to flatter feminine features.
Pfeiffer creates sustainable pieces for the modern woman. They take inspiration from tailored, masculine clothing and twist, tuck and drape them to flatter feminine features. The brand’s collections are quintessentially Australian through bright contemporary cuts and a primacy for keeping an entirely local supply chain.
At the helm of this brand are Virginie Pepin and Angela Aspradakis, best friends who hit it off during one of their fashion classes at the University of Technology in Sydney, bonding as the outsiders of a cohort who were mostly from the eastern suburbs.
They reconnected later in their twenties when they became flatmates, and would go on walks down the Esplanade talking about one day starting their own business. Virginie smiles, recalling it as “a fun time”. On starting Pfeiffer, she says: “it was [initially] never a goal of mine when I was designing for other brands because it’s so stressful … but I guess when you meet the right person, that can change”.
What sets Pfeiffer apart from the rest is their focus on maintaining an all Australian supply chain. Whilst many Australian brands are choosing to cut manufacturing and labour costs by producing their clothing offshore, the Pfeiffer women worry that “almost becomes a removal of the craft”.
Virginie says “having our brand be Australian made is something we really believe in.” “For us everything is so tangible … I don’t know if I would love doing it another way. I think it’s important to give a shit where your [clothes] come from.”
Angela recalls a conversation she had with her grandma about the Australian fashion industry: “She says, it has not always been what your generation thinks it is … clothes shouldn’t be as disposable as what we’re used to now … you used to hold onto a jacket [for years] because you used to pick out the fabric, make sure it was well made, and you would really cherish it … now it’s like, you get it for a season and then you hate it the next.”
Lifelong clothing isn’t just about quality, it’s also about choosing a piece that feels timeless in style. Purchasing staple items and curating the perfect capsule wardrobe have been wholly encouraged on social media in recent years, reflecting a change in public sentiment away from fast fashion giants and overconsumption, and towards mindful purchasing.
Pfeiffer’s designs are modern and tailored – and all about effortless, versatile dressing. Angela and Viriginie agree they are usually “drawn to clothes that are quite masculine.”
The most iconic capsule wardrobe item is a button down shirt, but Virginie jokes about how often “you see a photo of yourself [in a shirt] and you’re like, that is not flattering at all”. Back in 2015, she was wearing an oversized men's shirt and started pinning it while it was on her body, checking in the mirror where it should be dragged or tucked, and making sure to bring in the waist – that’s how her first design was born
Virginie muses “that’s why [this design] resonates with our customer, because it has [taken] something that is quite masculine [the shirt] [and has given it a] feminine edge and it’s flattering, it hides and morphs to the body and brings in the waist.”
Step into Pfeiffer’s Bondi store and you’ll be met with a feast of bright, block colours and ombre prints – the kind of colours you’ll see against tanned skin in a packed bar on the Australian coast. The Grenada Mini Twist dress, for example, comes not only in black and white, but also in pink, tangerine, pool blue, astroturf and a hand dyed blue ombre.
I’m surprised to learn that Pfeiffer does reverse designing - they start with their fabric, and then design for that fabric group. This is because Virginie and Angela travel to Hong Kong twice a year and reuse what is considered waste fabric from other fabric mills. These could have been discarded from project overproduction or minor defects.
The downside to this method, of course, is that the fabric is limited – take the Earth colourway, which was a popular jersey for the brand. Viriginie says they have “gone and cut that at least every five months … if we need to recut, we pray and hope it’s still available.”
Pfeiffer is working towards donning the carbon neutral title again this year, which requires an attention to detail when it comes to sustainable practices. Virginie comes armed with information about what they’re doing – she is clearly deeply involved in the efforts to lower the brand’s carbon footprint.
She proudly explains how Pfeiffer’s cutter collects all of their defects and fabric offcuts when manufacturing, and he repurposes them to become punching bag fillings.
Pfeiffer has also come up with a way to take biodegradable packaging a step further. When sending their clothing out to stores in polythene bags, they realised if they don’t seal the bags, then they don’t need to be ripped open and can be used multiple times before being composted. This means they’re producing less waste, and don’t need to purchase as many units.
Chatting to Angela and Virginie makes it clear to me why shopping from locally owned, smaller businesses is so important; they are meticulous and full of love for every aspect of Pfeiffer.
In future collections, Virginie says to keep an eye out for the Saint Germain mini dress, which is coming out in Autumn. It’s a modern take on one of their first bestsellers, the Yourlain dress, which was “the femme, flirty little dress amongst a collection of tailoring and suiting”.
For Angela, the Twist dresses are always her favourite. When they first released it, their buyers and agents warned them the style was too confusing and not going to work. They stuck to their guns, and now for Angela they have become “symbolic of not conforming to what people wanted from us” in that “you need to stay true to your vision, and your customer will come along on that ride with you.”
Alk by Le’Kal by Alin Le’Kal: It’s in the Details
Walking into the South Yarra showroom is like entering an underwater Degas painting where the ballerinas are the ghosts of bridal parties past…
28 February 2024 | Words by Grace Biber
Walking into the South Yarra showroom is like entering an underwater Degas painting where the ballerinas are the ghosts of bridal parties past, waltzing by in medleys of frothy tulle and ivory silk.
Full trains explode from racks, peppered with delicate lacework and beading. Mermaid dresses hang amongst gowns sporting detachable skirts of a shining fabric that pays no mind to the laws of physics. A shock of lace in front of a mesh outline creates, inexplicably, the properties of a mini dress. Amidst the ethereal chaos emerges one of Melbourne’s most beloved bridal designers, ALK By Le’Kal by ALIN LE'KAL.
Despite boasting a star-studded clientele, Alin remains humble to the medium he has risen to prominence in. “It’s an honour that my skills have been sought out for the bridal grown, which is arguably the most culturally significant piece you will ever wear.”
Nowadays there are many options for brides to purchase off-the-rack, yet the haute couture wedding dresses adorning the walls of the showroom are designed with intent; to create a lasting memory of the day and be passed down for generations.
Already famed as the creator of the Million Dollar Dress, a 150kg tour de force entirely covered in Swarovski crystals and held up by a cast-iron petticoat, created for Paris Haute Couture Week. While the dress never made it to Paris due to logistical issues, conventions of its design – namely, the glittering, armour-like bodice and handbeading, recalling a Joan of Arc-esque style – are well represented in his following collections, including his Ready To Wear that encapsulates both eveningwear and party dresses.
Incorporating intricately bodices with powerful silhouettes, the dresses explore the areas between sweet and sexy, combining both to create a uniform of elegant glamour. Alin’s signature hand-beading style shines in a minidress with diaphanous ruffled accents, and a lightly feathered ‘naked’ dress of a delicate gold.
Drawing inspiration from Melbourne’s character as a city, especially in the past few years— “Melbourne has been very stereotypically Melbourne, very timid, very black, dark tones”—but adding options for colours and textures, ALKbyLeKal is designed without motive or inspiration, but rather for who is going to be wearing his pieces. “You can base a person’s character on what they’re wearing.”
ALKbyLekal was conceived during Covid, when brides began purchasing pieces for baby showers, engagement parties and birthdays. Being unable to make dresses in-store, he launched the online shop.
While the inception for a bridal gown begins with a one-on-one conversation and personal relationship with the designer, Alin discusses his Ready To Wear with the same intimacy and passion as he discusses his individual designs.
“Eveningwear trends have become extremely personal, especially in Melbourne,” Alin explains, surrounded by his bejewelled and feathery creations. When speaking about the Ready To Wear collection designed for PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival, he is equally specific about his vision. “It’s for the fashionista who enjoys a night out, who has events they’re attending… everything depends on the wearer of the garment.”
Mass market appeal and trends are additional considerations, but they take a back seat. Some pieces created at the beginning of Covid are still selling, comfortably so. The ethos behind each dress is to create something beautiful that doesn’t go out of date or fall out of fashion.
And of course, the piece de resistance of any party girl’s wardrobe, the timeless sparkly mini, is well represented in many different forms across all of Le Kal’s collections.
Leaving the showroom is dropping out of a world of ethereal, bespoke artistry and back into a reality where weddings are once in a lifetime events—but even if you’re not a bride taking away a haute couture gown, you can still find some of the magic in ALKbyLeKal.
I Can’t Wait to Meet: Godwin Charli
Imagine the perfect fit, immaculately tailored to your measurements, physique, posture and personal style. Imagine a handcrafted, tailor-made suit created by one of Australian’s finest ateliers; Godwin Charli…
28 February 2024 | Words by Hannah Schmidt-Rees
“Godwin Charli’s owner and creator, Godwin Hili has always been intertwined with style, tailoring and emphasis on the perfect fit.”
Imagine clean cotton, breathable linens, luxurious velvet and soft cashmere. Imagine the perfect fit, immaculately tailored to your measurements, physique, posture and personal style. Imagine a handcrafted, tailor-made suit created by one of Australian’s finest ateliers; Godwin Charli.
Godwin Charli’s focus on the ideal fit was born from Hili’s own journey with made-to-measure clothing. His mother was a dressmaker, altering or creating custom clothing to fit Hili’s slim build as a child. As Hili explored his own personal style, his father’s vintage European wardrobe served as inspiration to get his own custom suits made from Melbourne-based ateliers. Throughout Hili’s life, others have always turned to him for his opinions on personal style and mens suiting, planting the seed for Godwin Charli, the idea of providing hand-crafted, made to order and personalised suiting for all.
Inclusivity is becoming an understandably important need for all consumers, and Godwin Charli has been providing inclusivity since its inception in 2007. Providing tailoring for both physical measurements and personal fit preferences, a visit to Godwin Charli is not your average buying experience. Stock sheets of fabrics swatches and a few swings of a measuring tape is not the kind of inclusivity Godwin Charli provides. Each detail is discussed and tailored to you (pun not intentional), and your wants and needs are respected and brought to life through each fabric choice, each style and each stitch.
“There is a massive confidence play here when it comes to suiting and wanting to come and shop with someone like me, because getting that fit just right to fit their body. Zero compromise.” - Godwin Hili
Godwin Charli doesn’t provide suiting pieces in standard sizing or a generic shopping experience. Each suit, regardless of your occasion, gender or age, begins with a fit profile. The usual measurement taking is a given, but Hili and his team of tailors will go above and beyond to ensure each detail is perfect, from the specific fabrication, silhouette, detailing and comfort. Each fabric is milled and woven in Europe, ranging from classic cotton and linen to elegant silk and versatile wool. This is what sets Godwin Charli apart from other suiting brands, the complete passion Hili embodies to ensure longevity and impeccable quality.
Throughout its 16 year lifespan, Godwin Charli has consistently evolved. Its roots are confidently settled in traditional suiting for menswear, 100% wool black tie single-breasted suits, styles that are reliable and renowned. As fashion evolved, as well as the demands for comfort and versatility due to the pandemic, Godwin Charli has followed suit. Traditional silhouettes have progressed to include vintage-inspired double-breasted jackets, as well as unstructured shoulders and relaxed fits. 100% wool sets are now allpurpose fabric blends, combining wool, linen and silk to ensure breathability and adaptable for all weather. Colours are more muted and natural, to be worn from day to night and across all occasions. Details are subtle yet distinctive, cotton pique, three-dimensional linen and seersucker added into the latest collection for both character and added lightness.
“The story doesn’t just start and finish with the customer, it’s also about the cloth itself. The mills I work with are hundreds of years old, and being able to share with the customer the origins of the cloth, that means a lot to them. They’re not just buying something generic, they’re buying something that means something”
Womenswear has also followed the same path, as classic patterns are reinvented with a modern and effortless fit. Limited edition fabrics, such as the multicoloured check using wool, silk, alpaca and mohair, uses the traditional checkered pattern and imbues it with striking colours; pink, blue and orange interwoven with beige and white. Single-breasted, double-breasted, sleek or structured, each piece ensures comfort through the perfectly tailored fit. Within the latest collection, military inspired detailing and waterproof fabrics combine with light watercolour floral prints and traditional capes, a subtle nod to the different purposes of clothing; to empower, to comfort, to present or just to wear.
Godwin Charli has also expanded its range to include golfwear, casual knitwear, technical jackets, sneakers and dress shoes. The combination of high-quality materials, bespoke stitching and tailored fits ensures sustainability and longevity, each piece is built to adapt and built to last.
“Having a model that’s pretty much zero waste. Only making what my clients wants. Ordering what only my client wants and needs. Working with the best mills in the world who have had to adapt themselves to being more sustainable enterprises. So, everyone’s doing their part, and I couldn’t be prouder of that in terms of the human environmental point of view and the impact on future generations.” - Godwin Hili
With Godwin Charli, you’re not just buying a new suit or a new piece of clothing. You’re buying a wardrobe staple, a sustainable and long-lasting garment, a sentimental piece for an important point (or points) for your life where you need to look good and feel confident. 4-5 weeks to wait and a tailor-made suit is ready to meet you.
“At that second fitting, it gives me a kick, knowing that you’ve done good. You’ve brought joy to someone’s life and you know its going to help them be a better professional, be a better partner, meet that special someone. There’s just so many ways that we create excitement and positivity in people’s lives and the way they look.” - Godwin Hili
R.Sport: Style for the Unserious Sportsman
Created for “dabblers” in sports ranging from soccer to trail running, R.Sport is the brainchild of ecommerce and marketing specialist Anthony Puliatti, aged 30…
28 February 2024 | Words by India Curtain
In the expansive world of sportswear brands, there are some designed for performance athletes, and others for those who simply enjoy their morning walk toward an iced latte. And then there’s R.Sport, who have their own space in between.
Created for “dabblers” in sports ranging from soccer to trail running, R.Sport is the brainchild of ecommerce and marketing specialist Anthony Puliatti, aged 30. Now co-led with former AFL player Jasper Pittard, this relatively new kid in the streetwear game is scoring goals (sorry) among recreational and performance athletes alike.
Pittard, 32, who played 158 games for Port Adelaide and North Melbourne, explains: “It's for people who just like to be active and involved in a community as a team. It’s not about being competitive, it's about encouraging exercise and being social.”
The part fashion label, part performance brand, which will showcase in the Block Party Runway x Visit Melbourne at the PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival, has steadily built a name for itself in the city’s hospitality and music industries, where Puliatti and Pittard have created custom jerseys for community sports teams and groups that love a friendly soccer match in their spare time.
The brand’s almost “anti-athleisure” aesthetic took shape in 2020 with the signature soccer jersey, and has now expanded to running, biking and golf. On the back of two world cups, R.Sport’s guernsey’s have been well received by soccer fans (and festival goers). The pair hope to use the PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival runway to reach a wider audience, and establish themselves in both the sporting and fashion industries.
“We’re using it as a bit of a tester for the new products, to see what the reactions like” says Pittard
Despite being the pair’s side-hustle – they each have other full-time jobs; Puliatti as an ecommerce specialist at furniture business Fenton & Fenton, and Pittard co-leads not-for-profit organisation Footy for Climate.
R.Sport is run with the same passion and energy as a full-time endeavour. Puliatti reflects on how their distinct visions pair together. “I have a bit more pared back and classic style, where Jasper’s is almost eccentric and flamboyant,” he says.
R. Sport’s current collection features a range of vibrant pieces, including “tiramisu-coloured” tracksuit pants, mesh caps, signature boxy logo tees, a bright green running shirt and an array of intergalactic, checked or striped soccer jerseys. Puliatti explains that material is an important part of the way they refined each drop.
“The fit and material are influenced by the ‘90s, early 2000s kits that were baggier and a bit breathier, rather than the modern performance kit that’s tight fitting,” he says.
The brand’s other sporting pieces such as golf and track apparel are influenced by the style of Tiger Woods and Michael Jordan in their early careers.
Parts of R. Sport’s aesthetic have evolved from Puliatti’s earlier business, named kvRkr.Sport, which designed hi-vis sportswear for cyclists. Some “experimental” pieces are still made available on their site, helping document the brand’s growth since launching.
Meanwhile, Pittard balances his product design at R.Sport with his own streetwear brand, WOAT, which he set up after the end of his football career in 2020.
The WOAT and R.Sport jersey collaboration
The pair met through the futsal community, where the opportunity arose to collaborate on some merch for Fitzroy bar Poodle, and the R. Sport duo was born (And yes, they still play futsal every Wednesday, donning their own designs, of course).
Ahead of the runway, they’ve teased some tennis inspired garments, track-skirts and an outfit inspired by the classic sports coach on game day. Beyond the show, the 2024 dream is to design team merchandise for local football clubs in the area, as well as expanding into their own space (they’re currently residing in an office above the Collingwood cafe, Into Coffee). Puliatti and Pittard hope to grow their community with the R. Conversations podcast and, of course, they’re always keen to grab new recruits for R.Sport Futsal Club teams.
R. Sport’s pieces are available on their website, unless specified to purchase through a collaborator.
Around the Town with the PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival Team
Amongst the crazy festival period, some of our team share their favourite spots to unwind and indulge in and around Melbourne…
2 Feb 2024 | Words by PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival
Amongst the crazy festival period, some of our team share their favourite spots to unwind and indulge in and around Melbourne. Supported by City of Melbourne.
RALPH
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
EAT
GIMLET
Russel St, Melbourne 3000
SHOP
GOODBYES
Prahran, Collingwood & Brunswick
MOLLY
PROJECT COORDINATOR
DRINK
CARETAKERS COTTAGE
Little Lonsdale St, Melbourne 3000
SHOP
SUCKER STORE
Johnston St, Fitzroy 3065
SAI WAI
PROGRAMMING COORDINATOR
EAT
AL ALAMY GROCERY STORE
Waterfield St, Coburg 3058
SHOP
VAULT, THE BLOCK ARCADE
Collins St, Melbourne 3000
DEE
CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER
EAT
GHOST BAR, HOTEL ESPLANADE
The Esplanade, St Kilda 3182
DRINK
APOLLO INN
Flinders Ln Melbourne 3000
MADI
MARKETING COORDINATOR
DRINK
BARKLY JOHNSON WINE BAR
Anderson St, Yarraville 3013
SHOP
PAM STORE
Swanston St, Melbourne VIC 3000
Styles to Look Out for in 2024
What better way to gear up for a big year of show-stopping runways, events, workshops and exhibitions, than with our 2024 fashion predications. They’re bold, fun and all about the ultimate self-expression…
4 January 2024 | Words by PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival
After another big year of show-stopping runways, events, workshops and exhibitions, we are revisiting our 2024 fashion predictions. This year’s street style was bold, fun and all about the ultimate self-expression.
PREDICTION 1: We Mean Business
Suits were seriously in, and not just for work. We saw tailoring taking a step up, reimagined in playful and colourful ways. Think embroidered jackets, tassels on pants and beaded sleeves. Festival goers let their creativity run wild on a classic silhouette we all know and love.
PREDICTION 2: Modern Polo Club
After seeing Emerald Fennell’s Saltburn, the British preppy look was on our minds, and who better to make something old new again than Gen Z, who are the next wave of fashion leaders. In 2024, It’s time to dress like a grandpa who played polo or rugby at Oxford and make it high fashion.
PREDICTION 3: Bring Hyper into Femininity
Volume. Big shapes. Bold. This trend is for those who like a feminine style but want the drama! We love how girlcore has taken over and embraced our inner child, but this year, we predicted these pieces took a new form with loud silhouettes, balloon sleeves and even more frills and sequins.
PREDICTION 4: Hello to The Great Outdoors
Who says you can’t wear sportswear all day? We know that outdoor and technical wear has been in for some time, but 2024 saw gorp-core embraced by all. Rock that windbreaker with a mini skirt and heels, or dress from head-to-toe in hiking gear, without the hike involved.
PREDICTION 5: Revival of the Red
'Tis the colour of the season: cherry red. We saw it on bags, lips, belts and dresses. Classic, yet a statement – red is one of those shades you’ll look at in awe every time you reach for it in your wardrobe.
