A TURBO DREAM
18 March 2024 | Words by India Curtain
Block Party Runway x Visit Melbourne celebrates PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival’s final night
As the PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival draws to a close, the phrase ‘last, but not least’ comes to mind. Every designer at the Block Party Runway x Visit Melbourne knew the stakes of showcasing in the Festival’s final event, and delivered a powerful hour of fresh and edgy outfits that had the crowd up on their feet and dancing by the end.
PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival’s big Saturday night saw guests donning their best pieces in the Fashion Forecourt supported by City of Melbourne, the Melbourne heat influenced bold streetwear, lace pieces and summer styles. As the sun set, a buzz surrounded the Royal Exhibition Building, attendees gathering to see a collection of local and emerging brands each with their own unique personalities. There’s a word to sum up Block Party, and that’s attitude. Every featured designer, with the aid of stunning techno-visuals and music by Lord Fascinator, created an unforgettable night that turned the runway into a dance-floor.
Stylist and designer Kirsty Barros has a bold approach to creating an outfit, known for her use of layering and dimension. She outdid herself in this show, calling it a “turbo dream” with combinations that push boundaries. For example, Gary Bigeni’s colour pops with Dinosaur Designs jewellery and Adidas gazelles, or the composition of Homie’s Naarm street-style outfits. The casting of models meant that the runway was spilling with moodiness and charisma, encapsulating attendees with every move.
“I was trying to recreate the feelings evoked when a street party breaks out,” Kirsty explains. “An increased heart rate, sweaty excitement, different personalities expressed through dance.”
Colour was a main theme behind Block Party, alongside intricate use of texture and layering. This is no new concept to Gary Bigeni, known for their vibrant pieces. Polka dots and smudges of colour in loose, flowing clothes were paired with silver handbags and fierce makeup looks. "Everyone knows Melbourne is the city of black and layering,” says Gary. "I wanted to create this vibe, but with colour, so it shows my personal style.”
Designer Youkhana’s signature is their delicately hand-woven pieces, braided into a collection that was introduced by a trio of denim sets, and followed by flowing gowns. Delivered with unmatchable flair, Youkhana’s textural pieces swept the runway, paired with lacquered and iridescent platform footwear. The brand’s craftsmanship is inspiring, oozing time and attention to detail.
THE STREETWEAR TAKEOVER
Both in the Fashion Forecourt and on the runway, Block Party was met with an impressive showcase of streetwear style.
R.Sport, a brand intersecting streetwear and sportswear, graced the runway with their bold sportswear collection and funky accessories, showcasing as a 3/4 length skirt and vest, platform crocs, track-style sunglasses and sports bags. They’ve used this runway to “think outside the box” compared to their core collection. A 90s style was channelled with tennis looks, and an energetic dance break involving a handheld stereo.
“There is such a cross over these days between sportswear, streetwear and high end fashion,” says R.Sport co-owners Anthony and Jasper. “We designed with all this in mind and want to unveil a collection that taps into all three of those areas.”
One standout piece was R.Sport’s signature soccer jersey, with the pink, feminine style of Lucinda Babi in a designer collaboration for the show. Her looks consisted of decadent layers, Victorian details, florals, and striking screen-print patterns. Her intricate lace numbers were a highlight, paired with jewels and delicate footwear.
FASHION FOR THE FUTURE
Various brands that walked Saturday’s runway have cast their eyes toward the future to create original and sustainable pieces, understanding that fashion is no longer just about the clothing. Naarm-based brand The Injury incorporates digital clothing simulation and mixed media in their brand storytelling.
The Injury’s Dan and Eugene explain how their brand bridges the physical world, connecting their material pieces with representations of CG films, music and digital art. “[We] fuse high-end fashion with virtual world possibilities to create its own special aesthetics that connect and and happen in the real world,” they said.
Their pieces were gothic and rugged, with powerful ensembles layered with chains, belts, biker boots and distressed details.
After 8 years and two babies, designer Nixi Killick was excited to showcase the advancement of her brand to a Melbourne audience once again. Growing up in the circus with her artist parents, Nixi Killick’s brand is uplifted by "the momentum and culture of radical positivity.” She leverages technology to not only create a collection of prints made from her own paintings, but to form an interactive experience within each piece. “Garments have augmented reality activated targets within the textiles prints,” she explains, “that activate on your smartphone and exhibit animated experiences that play directly off the garment.”
Her pieces were hypnotising, with esoteric, butterfly patterns signifying her design presence. Tribal drums and infrared visuals transported the audience to a faraway dance festival, with bright prints, colour and shapes.
THE INFLUENCE
It’s interesting to explore the differing themes that inspire each collection at Block Party. Iconic Melbourne-owned brand and social enterprise, Homie, supports young people affected by adversity and homelessness. They also feature an up-cycling range named REBORN, bringing dead-stock back to life and reducing waste. This Fitzroy-based name earned a cheer from the audience straight off the bat with a tech-y showcase of energy and presence, creating dimension with exposed stitching and blocks of bold colour. Either a stereo or a Bugskin tote bag in hand, the accessories tied together each look.
Lucinda Babi’s runway collection embodies the connection we have with the idea of home. Lucinda says that the pieces drew upon themes of comfort, opulence and nostalgia, mixing “girly elements,” subtle sportswear and strong silhouettes taken from the shape of furnishings themselves.
For Gotham, Block Party was an opportunity to explore elemental forces in their designs. They took inspiration from the sea and fishing, as well as the human interactions surrounding terraforming and mining. Their showcase was atmospheric and impactful, with layered pieces in earthy tones and a signature frilled addition.
SETTING AN ETHICAL EXAMPLE
The Block Party pieces come from a considered design process, with many of the brands adopting a ‘made to order’ approach. INJURY has managed to cut down 80% of carbon emissions during the sampling process with this approach, alongside the use of digital clothing simulation. Lucinda Babi and Gotham’s Gautam Kapoor create each and every garment themselves, in a shared Collingwood Studio.
RUNWAY SHOW OR DANCE PARTY?
The Block Party Runway x Visit Melbourne was closed with a surprising, yet psychedelic performance from Lord Fascinator that saw the models take their final walk of the week. Their poise, energy and fluidity left attendees with wide eyes, but recovered quickly when invited to take the stage themselves. A dance party on the PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival runway ensued, ending the night with music, laughs and great moves.