Style and Substance: Custom-Made is the Key to Sustainable Style
28 February 2025 | Words by Farah Amirah
A new fashion moment is upon us; and the arrival of the 2025 PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival is here to remind us that custom made tailoring, garments made with long life spans, and personal statement dressing is the flavour - where longevity is key.
Melbourne designers Perple and Chilali are recycling fashion and resurrecting deadstock fabrics all in the name of making new garments with a purpose.
This is a sartorial revolution happening in real time - a return to the intimate art of custom-made, where garments are not just clothes, but personal statements crafted with care and conscience.
The relentless churn of fast fashion, with its cheap production and fleeting trends, has left a devastating mark on our planet. The global fashion industry is one of the largest polluters, responsible for around 20% of global wastewater and for contributing over 92 million tonnes of water annually.
Emerging designers looking to make an environment difference is on show during PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival’s New Again Runway. Melbourne's vibrant fashion scene has always been about individuality, but the demand for slow fashion, original design and sustainable options means labels like Perple and Chilali are luring new audiences their way.
According to Perple designer Huiliana Chandra-Curry, it’s all about repurposing deadstock fabric that would end up in landfill. She is doing what she can to make an environmental difference by breathing new life into existing materials, transforming deadstock fabrics into exquisite wearable art.
"Having worked in the traditional fashion industry, I felt a need to change, particularly after the birth of my child, says Huiliana Chandra-Curry.
"I want to create beautiful, wearable art that can be cherished for life, not just a fleeting trend,” she says. Perple's designs embody the essence of empowered femininity, seamlessly blending delicate androgyny with flowing silhouettes that accentuate the body's curves; crafted from richly textured fabrics, each garment strikes a harmonious balance between elegance and boldness, artfully revealing a hint of skin while maintaining softness and sophistication.
This passion is reflected in the brand's innovative approach, which prioritises deadstock fabrics and an "everything on earth" philosophy. "Why not use what is already here?" she says.
“Each piece is carefully crafted only upon receipt of an order, eliminating the need for inventory and the wasteful practice of impulse buys that end up on the sale rack."
Chandra-Curry says managing customer expectations is a meticulous process, involving in-person fittings at her atelier, multiple Zoom sessions for overseas or interstate customers, and a transparent approach outlined on the brand's website. Her new collection ‘Rain’ can take months to perfect; her slow approach as meticulous as it is designed to last.
Perple
Perple
Chilali By Chi Weller on the other hand, is pushing the boundaries of innovation with his revolutionary approach to upcycling. Chilali’s aesthetic merges reconstructed tailoring with a gritty edge, fusing grunge and punk influences into futuristic garments that challenge traditional silhouettes while exuding an unapologetic boldness.
The brand's recent collaboration with Bryce Dean, is a testament to its commitment to creativity. Together, they push the boundaries of what's possible in biodegradable 3D printing using materials like corn starch, creating accessories, buttons, and embellishments that add an extra layer of meaning to every garment.
"For me, it's not just about creating clothes," says Chi Weller.
"It's about creating a platform for people to express themselves authentically. Sustainable fashion is not just about the environment; it's about empowering people to be their true selves."
Chilali
Chilali
Embracing the custom-made ethos, particularly when utilising sustainably sourced materials, unleashes a plethora of benefits. Imagine clothes that fit you perfectly – a true reflection of your unique silhouette and personal style. These pieces you'll love and wear for years. These aren't just clothes; they become treasured parts of who you are.
The obvious solution for sustainable shopping is to opt for second-hand items, giving pre-loved pieces a new life. However, if new items are a necessity, the next best choice is by choosing custom-made-to-measure or one-off designs. In doing so, you actively contribute to a more conscientious and sustainable fashion paradigm, where things are made thoughtfully, and waste is minimised. It's about investing in pieces that last, both in style and in substance.
It’s time we ditch the fast fashion for a fashionable future.
Don't miss the chance to witness the future of fashion as Perple, Chilali, and other visionary designers like Amy Cottrell, Mutual Muse, Sabatucci, Saigey, Swop, Szn and Toile Studios, redefine style and sustainability at the New Again Runway!
Buy tickets now here.