MELBOURNE DESIGNERS TRENDING AT AFW

21 May 2024 | Words by PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival

Image credit: Lucas Dawson Photography, MASTANI

Our team attended Australian Fashion Week to support the incredible line up of Melbourne designers showing.

The runways featured some iconic designers who were part of our 2024 programme, including Amy Lawrance, Mastani, Verner, Viktoria & Woods, and National Designer Award finalists Alix Higgins and Iordanes Spyridon Gogos (Jordan Gogos). We’ve curated some of our favourite runway looks and takeaways from Melbourne-based designers’ 2025 collections, with a couple of other friends from our programme thrown in.


ALIX HIGGINS

 

Image credit: GRAZIA

Image credit: GRAZIA

 

Our 2024 National Designer Award finalist Alix Higgins took to the runway with his “I forgive you god” 2025 collection, exploring poetics and emotion through his signature typefaces and graphics. Unafraid of experimentation, Higgins flipped his pieces on their head - t-shirts as skirts or dresses, or items worn upside down and layered in dynamic ways. There is always authenticity in what Higgins produces as hems are left untrimmed, materials have been upcycled and repurposed, plus it’s all handmade by him.

AMY LAWRANCE

 

Image credit: Vogue Australia

Image credit: Vogue Australia

 

If architecture was a form of clothing. Lawrance creates a world that feels somewhere in the near future, or maybe it’s pre-15th century. She emphasises her taste for geometry and structure through wide shapes and symmetrical lines. All twelve handcrafted pieces were showcased as part of our Independent Programme earlier this year at Oratory, The Abbotsford Convent.

ASIYAM

 

Image credit: Harper’s Bazaar

Image credit: Harper’s Bazaar

 

The floral detailing met with dark, edgy eye makeup brought modernity to modest fashion. ASIYAM proves to us that their elegant pieces can be worn for various occasions - whether you want full glam for a wedding, or to step up your corporate wear.

EMILY WATSON

 

Image credit: GRAZIA

Image credit: GRAZIA

 

It’s a hot girl summer…somewhere. Emily Watson’s “All A Girl Can Really Ask For” collection, showcased at The Next Gen Show presented by DHL was nothing short of ruching and frills. The Melbourne-based designer played with juxtapositions of lighter shorts, skirts and crop tops paired with leg and arm warmers. It’s giving early 2000s.

JOSEPH & JAMES

 

Image credit: GQ

Image credit: GQ

 

As part of the Indigenous Fashion Projects runway, Joseph and James championed the sentiment that comfort and style can co-exist, inspired by the chic grandpas in our lives. For an added preppy touch, some models rocked boxing gloves or a tennis racket. The show reminded us that vintage and ‘dad core’ styles will continue to dominant for seasons to come.

IORDANES SPYRIDON GOGOS

 

Image credit: GRAZIA

Image credit: GRAZIA

 

The Iordanes Spyridon Gogos collection doesn’t shy away from the spotlight. The creative mind of Jordan brings a wow factor to every show, and this time, we were graced with wearable intricate patchwork collages, resembling rugs. Every single piece was handmade and handwoven - impressive to say the least. While not Melbourne-based, we have a special spot for our National Designer Award finalist who won the Honourable Mention for Sustainability.

MASTANI

 

Image credit: Vogue Australia

Image credit: Vogue Australia

 

An homage to Indian weddings, MASTANI’s pieces were colourful, delicate and ethereal, but with a modern twist. The runway was met with silky and almost ‘wet look’ silhouettes paired with sheer details, showing off the models’ figures. Utterly breathtaking.

VERNER

 

Image credit: GRAZIA

Image credit: GRAZIA

 

Casual, summer dressing is at the core of Verner’s new collection. The brand reminisces on hot days in Australia, our love for the coast and Ugg Boots. Sheer dresses with bikinis peeking through, flowy shorts and sarongs are just some of the pieces that send us back to this feeling of hanging by the beachside or sitting at home on the porch.

VIKTORIA & WOODS

 

Image credit: Harper’s Bazaar

Image credit: Harper’s Bazaar

 

Celebrating 20 years of business, Viktoria & Woods is a household Australian name that we all know and love. A leader in womenswear, the runway featured the brand’s iconic pieces - including timeless coats, tailored blazers, silky numbers and versatile shirts. The new collection is now available to shop.

WACKIE JU

 
 

Another example of a powerful message through wearable art. Wackie Ju’s Saviour collection was everything and more - a runway, theatre performance and political statement. Honouring their Chinese heritage, the designer’s runway pieces represented part of China’s history, which included accents of red, a kimono-style coat and classic Chinese suits.

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